Typical Day in Delhi

Thought I should give a basic run down of what my days consist of here in Delhi. Even though I am half a world away it is amazing how easy it is to fall into a work day routine and become comfortable with every day mundane activities.

My day starts at 8:30 with breakfast, usually porridge, toast or parantha, and tea. Simple, but quite good and a couple nice slow cups of tea are a great way to start the day. Following breakfast it is time to get ready for work and an occasional phone call home. Competing with 12 girls for 2 bathrooms really isn’t as bad as anticipated and we all leave for work at different times so, thankfully, having to wait for a shower is rare. Of course it helps that most of us don’t bother showering daily since the pollution and dirt is so bad half the time there is no point in attempting to keep clean. Embrace the Filth!! I leave for work with the other girls who work at my center around 10:15. We find a rickshaw (which has been known to take up to 45 minutes to find one that’s willing to go to our part of town and not rip us off) and ride 45 minutes across town to a neighborhood called Pahar Gang. The street I work on, Multani Dhanda, is apparently right on the line between a decent neighborhood and a rough area of town. Luckily we work in the decent area. I have never felt unsafe near work, but am grateful that I don’t have to be in that area at night.

After arriving at work between 11 and 11:30 we spend time with the women at the center. The women are there taking classes in embroidery, beauty, or computer. We generally just sit and talk with the girls, and occasionally bring small craft projects to do with the girls – friendship bracelets, picture frames. We also conduct very informal English classes and play lots of hangman. I am very spoiled in the services the center is able to provide. In my time here I have gotten my eyebrows threaded, mehendi (henna) done on my arms, pants mended, and some prescription medications all for free. Some days I definitely feel like the girls help me more than I help them. After spending a couple hours with the girls we go to lunch at the same restaurant every day, Darbar. Great food and after being warned numerous times about the food in Pahar Gang causing massive stomach problems Darbar is a true gem.

After lunch we go back to the center and run a free afterschool program for the neighborhood children. The group of kids we work with changes daily and our numbers fluctuate from 4 to 40 kids. It is absolutely insane and we never have any idea of what to expect. When I arrived the kids were doing math problems and English penmanship lessons every day for 2 hours. We quickly changed this knowing that kids need to play and 2 hours of “homework” is overkill for 3-12 years olds after a day at school. We now color, play games (red rover, duck duck goose, a counting slap game, follow the leader), dance, and sing songs (a tootie tot being their favorite and the legacy I am leaving behind). The kids are a lot of fun and have so much energy and have taught me some killer bollywood dance moves. They are the most affectionate kids I have ever encountered giving numerous kisses and hugs every day before and after our program and generally treating us Didi’s as royalty. Many of the children have taken to calling me Didi Khushi since Chrissy is very difficult to pronounce for their Hindi tongues. Khushi means happiness in Hindi, so it is a nickname that I am very happy to embrace.

We send the kids home at 4 and get a rickshaw back to Siri Fort Road. From 5 til 7 I generally run errands, get on the internet at the “forbidden market” (our host family forbids us from going there for unknown reasons, but it is only a 5 minute walk away and has the cheapest produce and internet), or do some reading. Dinner is at 7 every night and is generally very unsatisfying. The dahl is generally watered down and lacks spices, so second dinner is frequently required. After dinner all the volunteers generally hang out playing cards, watching tv/movies, making travel plans, and going to a nearby coffee shop. Then off to bed and the routine continues.

Varanasi

This weekend 2 other girls and I went to Varanasi. A holy city of the Hindu religion located in the state of Upper Pradesh and a 13 hours train ride away. The train was just the same as last week’s to Varanasi, just twice as long. The temperature in India has started to cool down this week and the nights are quite cold, so the unsealed windows on the train made for a long, frigid ride with only a light fleece blanket. We arrived in Varanasi at about 6:30 am on Saturday morning and decided to find a hotel before doing anything. We went to a few places and decided on a Hotel that other volunteers had stayed at. It was a bit far from the city center, but was reasonably priced ($17/night when converted), clean, and had hot water – this has become a huge luxury! We had some breakfast – eggs which have also become a luxury and are muchly craved and left to go see the Ganges River and the Ghats for which Varanasi is famous.

The Ganges River is very holy in the Hindu faith, and a trip to Varanasi to bathe in the river is a very important pilgrimage. It is said that if a Hindu is to die in Varanasi they escape the cycle of reincarnation and are transported to the afterlife regardless of which caste they belonged to as they were alive. As a result Varanasi is full of elderly and has constant funeral processions and cremations open for viewing. We were told that 300-400 people are cremated along the banks of the Ganges in Varanasi everyday. The bodies are wrapped in cloth and carried by outcasts through town on a funeral procession with the family following. The body is then dunked in the Ganges and is placed within the wood and lit on fire. It takes approximately 3 hours for the whole burning process to occur. The amount of wood required is exact and the type of wood used depends on the wealth and importance of the deceased. Immediate female family members are not allowed to view the cremation. When a woman is widowed she becomes inauspicious and often has a very difficult time making do on her own in society. As a result it was not infrequent for a woman to jump into the cremation fire of her deceased husband, taking her own life. As a result it is viewed that women are not strong enough to handle the viewing and are kept away. Even as we were at the site the only women present were foreigners. Oddly, watching the cremations did not feel creepy or morbid. The spirituality was very much present and felt by all and the place and rituals were peaceful and reflective.

We spent the day wandering up and down the River taking in the sights and people watching. We returned to the hotel for a nap before going to watch the Arti ceremony that night. An Arti is a ceremony with chanting and men doing a slow choreographed fire dance. We were given lotus petals with a candle to place in the River along with Bindis on our foreheads. We ended the night at a bakery that ran a non-profit school and women’s empowerment program, and also served fantastic continental food – spaghetti and chicken sandwiches, and beer.

Sunday morning we got up super early to have a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges, a must do in Varanasi. After the stress of haggling for a reasonable price we thoroughly enjoyed our hour on the river. The morning light was beautiful as was watching all the private spiritual moments of those who make the pilgrimage to the river. We were then taken to a silk factory, Varanasi is famous for its hand woven silk, and had the experience of sitting on the floor with the shop keeper showing everything that you might want to see. We all purchased scarves and left to get some breakfast. Back to the hotel to nap and check out before a Ayurvedic massage in the afternoon. Interesting, and VERY naked but relaxing, massage; India’s incredibly modest until you hit the spa. After the massage we went to the mall and saw a movie before getting some McDonald’s for the train ride back to Delhi.

Jaipur - to be sung to the tune of Jai Ho

My first weekend trip outside of Delhi was to “the Pink City” with 5 other volunteers. We took the train Friday night directly after work which was an experience in itself. India railway not only sells all the seats in the cars, but sells standing spots as well. So, people will buy a standing seat with hopes that a reserved seat is open, or people will squish together to make room. Sitting on a train becomes a battle for your space – much like road traffic. If you do not want 6 people sharing your 3 person bench you must figure out how to take up as much space as humanly possible and also how to ignore and/or firmly tell anyone – elderly, pregnant, disabled – that no, you cannot scoot over and allow them to sit. They had as much opportunity to purchase the seat as you did.

After 7 hours on the train we arrived in Jaipur quite late and went directly to the guesthouse we had booked on the train. The room was nice enough, with pepto bismal pink walls and a comfortable bed, considering my mattress in Delhi has all the cushioning of the bare ground. Unfortunately, I began to get sick this night and tried my best to get as much sleep as possible determined to not let illness ruin my weekend. We all slept in Saturday morning and went to a much needed breakfast since we had not eaten the night before. Following breakfast we took a rickshaw to the town center and visited Hawa Mahal. This was beautiful palace with a carved façade that was used by royals to sit in and watch any events taking place in the city. The building was used for only this purpose, but offered beautiful views of the city. I then visited the city palace with another volunteer while the others wandered the city. The palace was amazing and still houses the Maharaja of Rajasthan.

Everyone ate lunch and then we wandered the city spotting a family of pigs, numerous rats, and monkeys among the other wildlife we were accustomed to viewing in Delhi. That night we went to a place called Chokhi Dhani. The best way I could describe this would be a culture park with the surrealism of Disneyland showing a pretty stereotypical, sugar coated depiction of Rajasthani life and culture. The park was a great relief from the chaos that is constant in India. The park was not crowded and was impeccably clean. There we elephant and camel rides, dancers and traditional music, palm readers, musicians, and a fantastic meal. We all ate sitting on pillows on the grounds with small tables. The variety of food was great and unlimited and everyone left full and satisfied despite almost forced additional servings and loads of attention from the waiters. I was very disappointed that I did not feel better so I could enjoy more of the meal. We wandered the park some more and then left for the hotel, with a detour at the wine shop, on the way. We spent the rest of the evening hanging out in one of the hotel rooms chatting. Thankfully, I slept wonderfully after a busy, fun day.

Sunday morning started with a fantastic breakfast that was so happy to be able to eat. We then went to the “Amber Fort” on top of a cliff overlooking the city. Jaipur was beautiful from above and walking around without crowds and constant obstacles was much appreciated. We went for a quick lunch and said bye to one of the volunteers who was leaving for travels on her own and went to the train station. Much to our dismay, our train was 3 hours late. We all tried to get some sleep on the train, while fighting for your sleeper bed at the same time, and arrived in Delhi around 2 am to go home and crash before going to work in the morning. It was a great weekend despite my health and I very much enjoyed a weekend outside of Delhi.

The Taj

So, yesterday the 3 girls I work with and I decided to take the day off and go to Agra to see the Taj Mahal during the week when it would not be so busy. After the hassle of getting the train booked and a taxi reserved for 5 am we were on our way. One of the girls I traveled with is of Indian descent and has family in Agra that she had to see. Luckily for us the family invited all of us over for breakfast and lunch and lent us their driver for the day (everyone in India who has even a little bit of money has numerous servants (their unashamed unPC word for it, not mine) - maids, drivers, cooks, sweepers, etc.) . We arrived in Agra at about 830 and were taken to the home for breakfast which was an excellent departure from the toast and watery porridge that we are served every morning in Delhi. Following breakfast we went to the Taj. The structure is as amazing as you would ever imagine. Crisp, gleaming white marble and incredibly grand heights and shapes. The woman this was built for must have been quite amazing. We spent a could hours roaming the grounds and enjoying the building's splendor. Sadly, Agra is quite polluted and smoggy, so many of the pictures did not turn out because of the white marble's similar color to the gray hazy sky. Following the Taj we went to Agra fort. I had never seen a more beautiful, intricately detailed fort in my life. The Islamic art influences were frequent and every corner turned up more artistic detail in carvings and sculpture. The fort also had numerous green squares that were fantastic for sitting and people watching. The king who built the Taj was actually imprisoned at the fort by his own son. He went into such deep depression following the death of his wife for whom he was building the Taj he was no longer fit to rule and was locked in the fort for 8 or 9 years. His son took some pity on him and gave him a cell with a window looking out over the Taj - his wife's burial place.

Finally it was time for lunch. Compared to the bland white rice and dal we eat every night for dinner, the spicy thick dal, fried rice, cucumber and tomato salad, eggplant, green peppers, cauliflower, potatoes, roti, and raita was amazing. We all ate like starving children and were very thankful for a full and nutritious meal. We rested the rest of the afternoon and visited with Alka's family who took us to a Hindu temple in their neighborhood being built. The temple is being made of hand carved marble and the detail is exquisite. Once finished it is said that the temple will rival the Taj. I agree that the craftsmanship and detailed carvings are much better than the Taj, but believe that the Taj is more famous because of the whole complete picture. This temple was amazing up close, whereas the Taj is meant to be seen from further away, so I do not believe that it is fair to compare the two. Regardless the temple was definitely worth seeing and I am looking forward to hearing of it's completion. That evening we did a little shopping and hopped the train back to Delhi for a much anticipated full night's sleep. Fantastic day

Rules of the road

Officially survived a week and a half in Delhi. Please believe that this is no small feat. After spending a day navigating the roads where everything including cars, semis, buses, auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, cyclist, scooters, wheelbarrows, pedestrians, dogs, cows, and elephants have equal right away even being able to cross the street alive is a miracle. No wonder so many people are religious here. Traffic lanes do not exist and where a 2 lane road would be at home Indian's some how make it into at least a 6 lane road with everyone fighting for the extra inch forward. Drivers routinely carry on conversations between cars while driving. I can't begin to count the number of times I am nearly run over on a daily basis by anything coming for every direction imaginable. Often times when walking in the less tourist visited parts of town we will be walking down the street with a clear path, but per usual the drivers start to stare and, of course, unknowingly their car turns directly into my path. I am very comforted by the fact that I rarely have to go anywhere alone and am getting very comfortable with the rules of the road. The bigger object always wins, but always put up a fight for your path. Driving in Delhi is truly an art form.

The smog and noise are absolutely insane. I read somewhere that Indian culture is very orally based rather than visually, so there is noise everywhere. Instead of looking over ones' shoulder to change lanes, the car behind you is expected to honk to let you know that they are there. If no honk is sounded the lane is clear to merge into. I have learned to really appreciate quiet and quickly find peace in whatever few seconds are available at a time. The smog is relentless. Everyday is hazy, but it was so bad Saturday that 5 railway workers were killed as they were working on the tracks as they could not see the oncoming train. i can only hope for the day in the near future when the metro lines are completed and this city can hope for some clean air. in the mean time i will continue to wear our scarves when driving in open air and nurture my lungs every chance i can get.

Though Delhi is completely busy and exhausting I am finding that I truly love it. People seem to really take care of one another and the children and women I work with are so full of love, and are genuinely concerned and caring for each of us. They call us volunteers "DD" (sp?) which is a very respected term that translates to big sister. We are frequently invited to families' homes and special events. This is a very special place full of amazing contradictions.

India...

Been in India 4 full days so far...

Left Thursday morning from Omaha and after sitting on the runway for an hour and a half in Chicago and a 15 hour flight I landed in Delhi around 10 pm Friday night. My ride was there to pick me up and I got my luggage and through customs fairly easy, minus a fairly mild swine flu screening and heat sensor which I am completely shocked the US has not implemented. Checked into my surprisingy clean and nice hotel and crashed in front of the tv sleeping off and on until noon the next day. Had an adventure trying to get a cell phone including it being necessary to provide them with my passport and a passport sized photo. The phone store was nice enough to provide me with an escort to the photo store around the corner and the atm at which point I decided to be appreciative rather than creeped out. Walking down the street was an adventure of everyone completely staring and not being at all shy about it. The people generally left me alone, but the turning heads was a bit unnerving. Since then I have come to realize that many Indians do not see many Westerners and have become more adjusted to the staring and random children coming up to shake my hand and say hi with beaming smiles. Te first 2 days here I mostly spent time in the hotel sleeping, watching tv, reading, ordering room service and venturing out to the grocery store very occasionally. It was a nice couple days to start to get over the 10 1/2 time change and jet lag. I arrived at my volunteer home Sunday night and met most of my housemates had some dinner and just hung out.

Monday began orientation. 3 hours of random Indian history and sights to see in Delhi. The program coordinator is rather dry and from what I have heard not helpful and almost greedy. Luckily I was prepared for this from talking with a former volunteer. All the other volunteers are amazingly helpful and love sharing their experiences, including everyone in everything, and answering questions. Started exploring some nearby markets and getting an idea of what type of shopping I will be doing. I am quite ready to go buy an entire Indian wardrobe. The clothes are stunningly beautiful and look incredibly comfortable. Monday was a Sikh holiday (their equivalent to Christmas), so me and a couple other girls went to the main Sikh temple in Delhi and took part in the celebration. After removing our shoes and covering our heads we went through the temple and were given the traditional dessert. We did not know the correct protocol, but apparently you are to get the dessert, then go to the portioning line and give half the dessert to god, then go through te temple and eat on the other side. The dessert was some type of mealy grain in a thick brown syrupy substance. Different texture, but quite good. I believe it was call Prashad.

I have not yet had a bad meal here. At the home every morning we have porridge and some type of bread, yesterday it was toast, today it was a savory pancake like thing with lots of spices. Dinner is rice, some type of vegetable (potatoes, cabbage, caulifower, tomato), Dal (lentils in a spiced liquid), and chipathi. The food is good, but is already starting to get bland. Luckily te restaurant near work has a huge variety and is very good and cheap.

Started work today at a place called SPOWAS - Society for the Progress Of Women And Children. Spent most of the morning walking around the sight then sat in on a beauty class and got my first experience with threading, letting the girls practice on me while I let them listen to my iPod. After that lunch and working with children in the afternoon giving math problems and teaching very basic English. Decided to take the bus home which will not be happening again. After an extremely crowded hour and a half we arrived back home completely exhausted. Quiet night tonight of internet and possibly some tv. India is exhausting