The end

The last 4 months of my life have been an incredible adventure. As I was sitting on the plane for my trip home an overwhelming sense of melancholy washed over me. These last 4 months have been what I have dreamt of doing since I began my “adult” life 7 or so years ago. The last year filled with great anticipation and preparation.

Now it’s over.

Now what?

Sure I will be starting grad school, but will I ever get to live this type of adventure again? The type of adventure where financial worries, deadlines, and all other parts of life that come so easily at home seem to disappear and no longer matter. The type where your ultimate goal at the end of the day is simply to survive.

The last 4 months have been amazing and I come home with absolutely no regrets. So I will start the next chapter of my life knowing that I am coming home a much better person than when I left. Knowing, or hoping?, that what is to come can only be greater than what has already passed. Onto a new part of my life and wherever it takes me.

Thanks to all those who have somehow been part of my journey back home and abroad. You all mean the world to me and I am so fortunate to have each of you in my life.

Here’s to the last 4 months

Here’s to the next big adventure.

Live and Learn

Now that my time in India is over I realize that I learned so much about life and myself than could ever be possible at home. Here’s a random assortment of what I have discovered and learned:

• To always appreciate silence and clean air
• To enjoy eating with my hands
• That I may like ginger
• To eat quite spicy food
• To get used to being stared at
• That traffic on the left is easy to get used to when you stop thinking about it
• To bargain really well
• That sometimes it’s ok to sit next to a stranger
• To appreciate some loopholes simply for the fact of giving another person a job.
• The BRATTY diet (Bananas, Rice, Apples, Tea, Toast, Yogurt) of course without the B for me
• To carry toilet paper with you everywhere
• The versatility of TK (ok, great) and a side head nod (yes, no, or maybe)
• That Thanksgiving dinner is possible even without a turkey or an oven
• To always ask for directions, and to ask multiple times
• That no matter how desperate, Nescafe is still not an adequate substitute for coffee
• To chew fennel seeds
• To love to dance again
• To like pop music – at least in Hindi
• To pack light
• To take short showers
• That threading is far superior to waxing
• To do my laundry in a bucket
• To create a very balanced meal from street food
• You can never have too many scarves

After much deliberation I decided that I would spend the majority of my last week in India on the beach in Goa. I flew down here on Tuesday morning after a shower and complete overhaul of my packed overnight bag to convert it from cold mountain hiking to beach and clubbing wear. All went very well in the morning, my train actually got in early and I had plenty of time to shower, breakfast, and pack before my taxi to the aiport. I arrived at the airport and checked in with no problems with plenty of time before my flight and was blown away by how nice Delhi's domestic airport was. The shops were wonderful and not overly priced, the food court was filled with variety, and the toilets were the cleanest I had seen since leaving Chicago. The airport is set up a bit differently than at home. You are to wait in the main shopping/waiting area until your flight begins to board and only then are you allowed to the gate. From there you board a bus and are driven to you plane. It was actually extremely efficient and there was not the loads of wasted space encountered at most airports. Flight was 2 1/2 hours and I arrived in Goa. Caught a taxi to Anjuna where the 2 girls - Lucy and Emily - I was travelling with were. We met and got settled in the guest house and went and had dinner. After dinner a walk on the beach to a club which had a Rave going that night. Very interesting to watch, but the drugged people dancing to trance music were not our scene, so we sat at the egg sandwich and chai stall sitting outside the club and watched for awhile then went to the bar next door for a couple drinks. While at this bar we met some NRIs (Non Resident Indians) who lived in the US and Canada. We talked with these guys for awhile and had some drinks and from there we all decided to go to another club as the ones in Anjuna were closing, so we traveled to Baga beach to a club there and danced, smoked hookah, and hung out until they closed down at 4 am. Had some late night food and got a taxi back to the guest house for a couple hours of sleep before the beach on Wednesday.

Wednesday began with the girls I was traveling with sorting out some travel plans, then breakfast of much craved eggs - it's amazing how much you miss eggs when they aren't readily available. After breakfast we went to the beach and did not leave until dark. The 6 hours in the sun was incredible and apart from the annoying fruit, peanut, ice cream, massage, manicure/pedicure, and jewelry wallahs (salespeople) the day was extremely relaxing. After dark we all got showered and changed for dinner then went to a restaurant on the beach for some Goan food. I had seafood vindaloo which is probably my favorite dish I have had since being in India. We sat at the restaurant for a couple hours and debated meeting up with our friends from the night before or going to bed. In the end bed won since we had only slept a couple hours the night before and we were all in bed, asleep by midnight.

Thursday was spent entirely on the beach which apart from a mild sunburn was phenomenal. Since we all had flights the next day we got a bus to a town near the airport and checked into a cheap hotel for the night. This was by far the worst hotel I have ever stayed in. There was an indescribable smell that you could not get used to, mold on the ceiling, and suspected beg bugs, but it was only $8 and it was just to sleep at. We all made due and got some sleep. After saying another set of goodbyes, Lucy and Emily left and I had some breakfast and just hung out in Vasco until my flight this afternoon. Then back to Delhi for one last night and full day of shopping, errands, and packing, and some final goodbyes.

Chilling in Kumaon

My last weekend trip in India did not get off to such a great foot. I initially went to the wrong train station, but luckily realized in time to get to the right one, and once I did my train was over an hour late without any notification. Of course this had be in a little bit of a panic as to whether or not I booked the correct date, was at the right place, or had already missed to train. But finally the train rolled in and I found my sleeper bunk. I booked an AC car this time since the windows are sealed and it is starting to get very cold at night. This 200 Rps upgrade was $4 very well spent; not only were the beds more comfortable, but it was quiet and sheets, pillow, and blanket were provided!I arrived in Ramnagar Saturday morning and was met at the train by the owner of my hotel for that night. He led me across some tracks and actually under a train to his motorcycle - red flags were definitely flying - but he had brought the luggage boy with him and who else in Ramnagar would know my name? So, I hopped on for my first ever motorcycle ride. I had to ride side saddle since he had a saddle bag on the side and because that's what women in India do. It was a interesting ride and I was glad we did not have to go that far. I was then told that the entire town and wildlife preserve was closed for the day due to the townspeople trying to find a kidnapper/murderer, so there was not too much I could do today. I got settled in my room and took a nap followed by a walk through town and lunch at the hotel. He was not kidding about the town being shut down. Not a single store was open, the roads were blocked off with burning tires and stones, and all the townsmen were marching through town chanting on an apparent man hunt. By about 3:00 a smaller wildlife park opened up which I was able to hire a car, driver, and guide to go visit. We did not see many animals in the park that evening, but I was grateful to do something. We did visit a jungle temple that was straight out of the jungle book. That night a simple dinner and movies in bed desperately trying to keep warm - no heaters anywhere.Sunday morning began with a 6:30 am safari into Corbett Tiger reserve. On my half day safari I saw a bird related to the toucan, spotted deer, barking deer, monkeys, peacocks, and a wild elephant. We also saw bear and tiger tracks and heard a tiger hunting. We were super close to seeing the tiger, but after talking to people who had spent much more time in the park than I and hadn't even heard a tiger I decided to not be disappointed. That afternoon I enjoyed some quiet time sitting out in the sun in the mango orchard surrounding my hotel before my bus to Nainital.The bus rides are much like the train rides except no one has assigned seats. It was definitely crowded and took about 3 hours to go 65 kilometers. I was very happy to finally reach Nainital and get checked into my hotel here. That night I did a little shopping and walked around town, and after telling a guy that no he cannot join me for dinner or later in my hotel room I had a delicious dinner which I inhaled - seems I had forgotten to eat much that day. I took some chocolate cake back to my room and watched a movie with a pot of tea. Another cold night with multiple layers and 4 blankets, but the bed was comfortable and once I got it warmed up I slept very well.Monday morning I ate breakfast on the beautiful rooftop terrace overlooking Lake Nainital and following breakfast went on a walk around the lake followed by a 8 km hike to the top of Naina Peak. The views from the top were breathtaking and you could see the snow topped peaks of the Himalayas. Very difficult hike, but most definitely worth it. The remainder of the day was spent wandering the Tibetan market, eating Tibetan food, and relaxing before my evening train ride back to Delhi.

Only in India

A list of various things that I have encountered during my time here that I do not expect to ever run into again:

Only in India-
• Would I ever even consider entertaining the socks with flip flops faux pas – we can all pretend that I have only considered this and not actually followed through
• Washing your feet occurs more often than brushing your teeth and becomes a favorite part of your day
• Is toilet paper considered unsanitary, but relieving yourself on the side of the road is completely acceptable
• Do you begin to envy other people’s squatting skills
• Is it acceptable to show your stomach, but never dream of showing your knees
• Do the men dance more than the women and find “Who Let the Dogs Out” and anything by the Blackeyed Peas the best music to do it to
• Is two men holding hands more tolerated than a man and a woman doing the same
• Do the men tell you they love you 10 minutes after meeting you and propose marriage 2 hours later
• Does your alcoholic beverage cost twice as much as your meal
• Are you given 1 menu for 8 people
• Would the traffic stop for a cow, but never for a pedestrian
• Would a shopkeeper be your best friend while your looking, your worst enemy when talking money, and return to BFF at the conclusion of the deal
• Would you ever consider buying and item clothing without trying it on – “no changing room”, “it’s only $2”, “if it doesn’t work someone at the house will like it”
• Does every passenger have to evacuate the vehicle to fill it with gas
• Is a fixed price sign more rare than being quoted a fair price
• Would the book you just purchased new be missing pages 3-19
• Could you buy a mattress being driven door to door by a bike
• Does every song you hear come from a movie
• Would you see infants at a construction site at work with their parents
• Would you see a 4 year old taking care of those infants
• Are dogs a pesky rodent rather than a beloved part of the family
• Will you be given gifts and spoiled by people who can barely afford to take care of themselves – “the guest is God”
• Would a women’s empowerment volunteer program involve teaching children
• Would a beggar child ever show you that he bought biscuits with the money you gave him
• Are people so profoundly and genuinely curious and interested in every facet of your life
• Do you learn the fine art of selecting and mixing printed fabric – the brighter the colors and crazier the print the better!
• Do you get excited to see blue sky
• Are ALL your senses constantly engaged
• Do you truly understand the meaning on contradictions
• Do you learn to love the contradictions encountered in the daily challenges and annoyances of such a crazy beautiful place

Typical Day in Delhi

Thought I should give a basic run down of what my days consist of here in Delhi. Even though I am half a world away it is amazing how easy it is to fall into a work day routine and become comfortable with every day mundane activities.

My day starts at 8:30 with breakfast, usually porridge, toast or parantha, and tea. Simple, but quite good and a couple nice slow cups of tea are a great way to start the day. Following breakfast it is time to get ready for work and an occasional phone call home. Competing with 12 girls for 2 bathrooms really isn’t as bad as anticipated and we all leave for work at different times so, thankfully, having to wait for a shower is rare. Of course it helps that most of us don’t bother showering daily since the pollution and dirt is so bad half the time there is no point in attempting to keep clean. Embrace the Filth!! I leave for work with the other girls who work at my center around 10:15. We find a rickshaw (which has been known to take up to 45 minutes to find one that’s willing to go to our part of town and not rip us off) and ride 45 minutes across town to a neighborhood called Pahar Gang. The street I work on, Multani Dhanda, is apparently right on the line between a decent neighborhood and a rough area of town. Luckily we work in the decent area. I have never felt unsafe near work, but am grateful that I don’t have to be in that area at night.

After arriving at work between 11 and 11:30 we spend time with the women at the center. The women are there taking classes in embroidery, beauty, or computer. We generally just sit and talk with the girls, and occasionally bring small craft projects to do with the girls – friendship bracelets, picture frames. We also conduct very informal English classes and play lots of hangman. I am very spoiled in the services the center is able to provide. In my time here I have gotten my eyebrows threaded, mehendi (henna) done on my arms, pants mended, and some prescription medications all for free. Some days I definitely feel like the girls help me more than I help them. After spending a couple hours with the girls we go to lunch at the same restaurant every day, Darbar. Great food and after being warned numerous times about the food in Pahar Gang causing massive stomach problems Darbar is a true gem.

After lunch we go back to the center and run a free afterschool program for the neighborhood children. The group of kids we work with changes daily and our numbers fluctuate from 4 to 40 kids. It is absolutely insane and we never have any idea of what to expect. When I arrived the kids were doing math problems and English penmanship lessons every day for 2 hours. We quickly changed this knowing that kids need to play and 2 hours of “homework” is overkill for 3-12 years olds after a day at school. We now color, play games (red rover, duck duck goose, a counting slap game, follow the leader), dance, and sing songs (a tootie tot being their favorite and the legacy I am leaving behind). The kids are a lot of fun and have so much energy and have taught me some killer bollywood dance moves. They are the most affectionate kids I have ever encountered giving numerous kisses and hugs every day before and after our program and generally treating us Didi’s as royalty. Many of the children have taken to calling me Didi Khushi since Chrissy is very difficult to pronounce for their Hindi tongues. Khushi means happiness in Hindi, so it is a nickname that I am very happy to embrace.

We send the kids home at 4 and get a rickshaw back to Siri Fort Road. From 5 til 7 I generally run errands, get on the internet at the “forbidden market” (our host family forbids us from going there for unknown reasons, but it is only a 5 minute walk away and has the cheapest produce and internet), or do some reading. Dinner is at 7 every night and is generally very unsatisfying. The dahl is generally watered down and lacks spices, so second dinner is frequently required. After dinner all the volunteers generally hang out playing cards, watching tv/movies, making travel plans, and going to a nearby coffee shop. Then off to bed and the routine continues.

Varanasi

This weekend 2 other girls and I went to Varanasi. A holy city of the Hindu religion located in the state of Upper Pradesh and a 13 hours train ride away. The train was just the same as last week’s to Varanasi, just twice as long. The temperature in India has started to cool down this week and the nights are quite cold, so the unsealed windows on the train made for a long, frigid ride with only a light fleece blanket. We arrived in Varanasi at about 6:30 am on Saturday morning and decided to find a hotel before doing anything. We went to a few places and decided on a Hotel that other volunteers had stayed at. It was a bit far from the city center, but was reasonably priced ($17/night when converted), clean, and had hot water – this has become a huge luxury! We had some breakfast – eggs which have also become a luxury and are muchly craved and left to go see the Ganges River and the Ghats for which Varanasi is famous.

The Ganges River is very holy in the Hindu faith, and a trip to Varanasi to bathe in the river is a very important pilgrimage. It is said that if a Hindu is to die in Varanasi they escape the cycle of reincarnation and are transported to the afterlife regardless of which caste they belonged to as they were alive. As a result Varanasi is full of elderly and has constant funeral processions and cremations open for viewing. We were told that 300-400 people are cremated along the banks of the Ganges in Varanasi everyday. The bodies are wrapped in cloth and carried by outcasts through town on a funeral procession with the family following. The body is then dunked in the Ganges and is placed within the wood and lit on fire. It takes approximately 3 hours for the whole burning process to occur. The amount of wood required is exact and the type of wood used depends on the wealth and importance of the deceased. Immediate female family members are not allowed to view the cremation. When a woman is widowed she becomes inauspicious and often has a very difficult time making do on her own in society. As a result it was not infrequent for a woman to jump into the cremation fire of her deceased husband, taking her own life. As a result it is viewed that women are not strong enough to handle the viewing and are kept away. Even as we were at the site the only women present were foreigners. Oddly, watching the cremations did not feel creepy or morbid. The spirituality was very much present and felt by all and the place and rituals were peaceful and reflective.

We spent the day wandering up and down the River taking in the sights and people watching. We returned to the hotel for a nap before going to watch the Arti ceremony that night. An Arti is a ceremony with chanting and men doing a slow choreographed fire dance. We were given lotus petals with a candle to place in the River along with Bindis on our foreheads. We ended the night at a bakery that ran a non-profit school and women’s empowerment program, and also served fantastic continental food – spaghetti and chicken sandwiches, and beer.

Sunday morning we got up super early to have a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges, a must do in Varanasi. After the stress of haggling for a reasonable price we thoroughly enjoyed our hour on the river. The morning light was beautiful as was watching all the private spiritual moments of those who make the pilgrimage to the river. We were then taken to a silk factory, Varanasi is famous for its hand woven silk, and had the experience of sitting on the floor with the shop keeper showing everything that you might want to see. We all purchased scarves and left to get some breakfast. Back to the hotel to nap and check out before a Ayurvedic massage in the afternoon. Interesting, and VERY naked but relaxing, massage; India’s incredibly modest until you hit the spa. After the massage we went to the mall and saw a movie before getting some McDonald’s for the train ride back to Delhi.