Chilling in Kumaon

My last weekend trip in India did not get off to such a great foot. I initially went to the wrong train station, but luckily realized in time to get to the right one, and once I did my train was over an hour late without any notification. Of course this had be in a little bit of a panic as to whether or not I booked the correct date, was at the right place, or had already missed to train. But finally the train rolled in and I found my sleeper bunk. I booked an AC car this time since the windows are sealed and it is starting to get very cold at night. This 200 Rps upgrade was $4 very well spent; not only were the beds more comfortable, but it was quiet and sheets, pillow, and blanket were provided!I arrived in Ramnagar Saturday morning and was met at the train by the owner of my hotel for that night. He led me across some tracks and actually under a train to his motorcycle - red flags were definitely flying - but he had brought the luggage boy with him and who else in Ramnagar would know my name? So, I hopped on for my first ever motorcycle ride. I had to ride side saddle since he had a saddle bag on the side and because that's what women in India do. It was a interesting ride and I was glad we did not have to go that far. I was then told that the entire town and wildlife preserve was closed for the day due to the townspeople trying to find a kidnapper/murderer, so there was not too much I could do today. I got settled in my room and took a nap followed by a walk through town and lunch at the hotel. He was not kidding about the town being shut down. Not a single store was open, the roads were blocked off with burning tires and stones, and all the townsmen were marching through town chanting on an apparent man hunt. By about 3:00 a smaller wildlife park opened up which I was able to hire a car, driver, and guide to go visit. We did not see many animals in the park that evening, but I was grateful to do something. We did visit a jungle temple that was straight out of the jungle book. That night a simple dinner and movies in bed desperately trying to keep warm - no heaters anywhere.Sunday morning began with a 6:30 am safari into Corbett Tiger reserve. On my half day safari I saw a bird related to the toucan, spotted deer, barking deer, monkeys, peacocks, and a wild elephant. We also saw bear and tiger tracks and heard a tiger hunting. We were super close to seeing the tiger, but after talking to people who had spent much more time in the park than I and hadn't even heard a tiger I decided to not be disappointed. That afternoon I enjoyed some quiet time sitting out in the sun in the mango orchard surrounding my hotel before my bus to Nainital.The bus rides are much like the train rides except no one has assigned seats. It was definitely crowded and took about 3 hours to go 65 kilometers. I was very happy to finally reach Nainital and get checked into my hotel here. That night I did a little shopping and walked around town, and after telling a guy that no he cannot join me for dinner or later in my hotel room I had a delicious dinner which I inhaled - seems I had forgotten to eat much that day. I took some chocolate cake back to my room and watched a movie with a pot of tea. Another cold night with multiple layers and 4 blankets, but the bed was comfortable and once I got it warmed up I slept very well.Monday morning I ate breakfast on the beautiful rooftop terrace overlooking Lake Nainital and following breakfast went on a walk around the lake followed by a 8 km hike to the top of Naina Peak. The views from the top were breathtaking and you could see the snow topped peaks of the Himalayas. Very difficult hike, but most definitely worth it. The remainder of the day was spent wandering the Tibetan market, eating Tibetan food, and relaxing before my evening train ride back to Delhi.